The dusty roads of Potnal village in Manvi taluk of Raichur district didn't reveal anything about the 'design' revolution that has taken place here. The mood of visiting a sleepy village lingered on even when we entered a small hall, where women were busy doing some craft work. But the feel faded away as soon as we picked up a conversation with the women there and started observing their work.
Lakshmi, who is in her forties, quickly made a clay bead of the size of a green gram and pierced a needle-sized straw in the middle to make a tiny hole. She placed it on a plate and picked a speck of clay to make another bead. To our astonishment, the handmade beads were amazingly similar in their shape and size. "A chain will be made from these beads," she said. She is one of the many artisans in the village who have excelled in designing terracotta jewellery.
It all started in 2000 when Jagrutha Mahila Sanghathan, a dalit women movement in the village decided to come up with alternative livelihood options that stress on the dignity of labour. Eventually, a training programme in terracotta jewellery was arranged. "We were taught to make a few designs in the training. Gradually, we developed many more designs, with the number crossing a thousand now," says Lakshmi, who leads a 10-member team that makes a wide variety of terracotta articles, mostly jewellery. They draw inspiration from nature and rural life while designing the patterns.
While hundreds of women participated in the initial training, many didn't continue the occupation. Those who persisted, formed a terracotta-based livelihood enterprise called Chiguru. They make earrings, necklaces, chains, bracelets, bangles, wall decor, hangings and key chains of different sizes, colours and shapes. The wide array of articles spread across in the workspace of Chiguru indicates the demand for these artefacts.
Though terracotta articles can naturally be made only in two colours, brown and black, artisans make them colourful using acrylic paints. "It is difficult to judge consumer preferences. We have now got an idea after years of being in the field. For example, Bengalureans prefer colourful jewellery to match their dress, while Andhra people like gold and pink. Of late, there is a growing demand for natural colours and antique style," explains Ganga, a young artisan. The colours may last for six months if the jewellery is continuously used but if worn occasionally, they remain bright and attractive for more than five years.
The artisans between the age of 18 and 60 constantly experiment with new designs making the jewellery bright and colourful. "Making terracotta jewellery needs a lot of patience and concentration. The strain on our eyes is evident. But it is the passion for the art that drives us," says Hulagamma, an elderly artisan.
The process
The clay for making terracotta artefacts is not locally available and hence they procure it from outside. The refined clay is available in the form of a fine powder. The powder is first dissolved in water and then sieved through a cloth to remove impurities. The thick liquid obtained thus is kept for a period of 10-15 days to lose water on evaporation. It is then spread on a polythene sheet and kneaded. As soon as it attains the consistency of dough, it is kept wrapped in a plastic cover. This raw material is carefully shaped into terracotta jewellery. Once the articles are made out of clay and dried, they are baked to get the final product. If articles are put in paddy husk in a concealed earthen pot while baking, they get black colour. Otherwise, they remain brown. Then they are painted as per the market demand. Simple tools like knives, thin straws or pens are used to make designs before baking. Then various colourful patterns are drawn on these products.
Initially, the artisans began their work imitating local ornamental designs. The terracotta imitation of tikke mani, a popular necklace pattern of North Karnataka, was a big hit in the region. "When painted with gold colour, it resembled gold jewellery," says Lakshmi. Later, they started observing patterns of people's preference as and when they participated in exhibitions. They also draw inspiration from nature and folk traditions while designing the patterns. The ingenuity of these women has made their designs most sought-after. They also make customised jewellery.
The value of work carried out by each one in the group is decided based on the intricacy involved in developing a design. The money is deposited in the common account maintained in the name of the group. The money is later distributed among the members based on their share of work. While terracotta jewellery has satisfied their creative instincts, the work has also helped the group members improve their social and economic status. The beautiful handicrafts made by the grassroots women have emerged as one of Raichur's important products and even considered as the district's pride. They are exhibited in the deputy commissioner's office as well.
Dignity of labour
Chiguru works from a thatched, bamboo-walled hut in a site earmarked for dalits on the outskirts of the village. A request to the district administration to allot a place for them has not yielded results yet. They even recall the loss of articles worth Rs two lakh due to floods that ruined many lives in northern Karnataka in 2009. Also, they feel an urgent need to improve packaging to make the products more safe and attractive. However, hardships have not deterred them.
On the other hand, they feel their efforts are being recognised. They have grown as a brand and are given preference at various events. Chiguru gets regular orders from people within the State as well as from abroad. Sakhi, an non-profit based in Hospet buys articles in bulk and sells them across the State.
Green Path, a Bengaluru-based organic outlet, showcases and sells Potnal terracotta jewellery as well. Constant experimentation and innovation have made Potnal terracotta jewellery popular in other countries too.
Lakshmi, who is in her forties, quickly made a clay bead of the size of a green gram and pierced a needle-sized straw in the middle to make a tiny hole. She placed it on a plate and picked a speck of clay to make another bead. To our astonishment, the handmade beads were amazingly similar in their shape and size. "A chain will be made from these beads," she said. She is one of the many artisans in the village who have excelled in designing terracotta jewellery.
It all started in 2000 when Jagrutha Mahila Sanghathan, a dalit women movement in the village decided to come up with alternative livelihood options that stress on the dignity of labour. Eventually, a training programme in terracotta jewellery was arranged. "We were taught to make a few designs in the training. Gradually, we developed many more designs, with the number crossing a thousand now," says Lakshmi, who leads a 10-member team that makes a wide variety of terracotta articles, mostly jewellery. They draw inspiration from nature and rural life while designing the patterns.
While hundreds of women participated in the initial training, many didn't continue the occupation. Those who persisted, formed a terracotta-based livelihood enterprise called Chiguru. They make earrings, necklaces, chains, bracelets, bangles, wall decor, hangings and key chains of different sizes, colours and shapes. The wide array of articles spread across in the workspace of Chiguru indicates the demand for these artefacts.
Though terracotta articles can naturally be made only in two colours, brown and black, artisans make them colourful using acrylic paints. "It is difficult to judge consumer preferences. We have now got an idea after years of being in the field. For example, Bengalureans prefer colourful jewellery to match their dress, while Andhra people like gold and pink. Of late, there is a growing demand for natural colours and antique style," explains Ganga, a young artisan. The colours may last for six months if the jewellery is continuously used but if worn occasionally, they remain bright and attractive for more than five years.
The artisans between the age of 18 and 60 constantly experiment with new designs making the jewellery bright and colourful. "Making terracotta jewellery needs a lot of patience and concentration. The strain on our eyes is evident. But it is the passion for the art that drives us," says Hulagamma, an elderly artisan.
The process
The clay for making terracotta artefacts is not locally available and hence they procure it from outside. The refined clay is available in the form of a fine powder. The powder is first dissolved in water and then sieved through a cloth to remove impurities. The thick liquid obtained thus is kept for a period of 10-15 days to lose water on evaporation. It is then spread on a polythene sheet and kneaded. As soon as it attains the consistency of dough, it is kept wrapped in a plastic cover. This raw material is carefully shaped into terracotta jewellery. Once the articles are made out of clay and dried, they are baked to get the final product. If articles are put in paddy husk in a concealed earthen pot while baking, they get black colour. Otherwise, they remain brown. Then they are painted as per the market demand. Simple tools like knives, thin straws or pens are used to make designs before baking. Then various colourful patterns are drawn on these products.
Initially, the artisans began their work imitating local ornamental designs. The terracotta imitation of tikke mani, a popular necklace pattern of North Karnataka, was a big hit in the region. "When painted with gold colour, it resembled gold jewellery," says Lakshmi. Later, they started observing patterns of people's preference as and when they participated in exhibitions. They also draw inspiration from nature and folk traditions while designing the patterns. The ingenuity of these women has made their designs most sought-after. They also make customised jewellery.
The value of work carried out by each one in the group is decided based on the intricacy involved in developing a design. The money is deposited in the common account maintained in the name of the group. The money is later distributed among the members based on their share of work. While terracotta jewellery has satisfied their creative instincts, the work has also helped the group members improve their social and economic status. The beautiful handicrafts made by the grassroots women have emerged as one of Raichur's important products and even considered as the district's pride. They are exhibited in the deputy commissioner's office as well.
Dignity of labour
Chiguru works from a thatched, bamboo-walled hut in a site earmarked for dalits on the outskirts of the village. A request to the district administration to allot a place for them has not yielded results yet. They even recall the loss of articles worth Rs two lakh due to floods that ruined many lives in northern Karnataka in 2009. Also, they feel an urgent need to improve packaging to make the products more safe and attractive. However, hardships have not deterred them.
On the other hand, they feel their efforts are being recognised. They have grown as a brand and are given preference at various events. Chiguru gets regular orders from people within the State as well as from abroad. Sakhi, an non-profit based in Hospet buys articles in bulk and sells them across the State.
Green Path, a Bengaluru-based organic outlet, showcases and sells Potnal terracotta jewellery as well. Constant experimentation and innovation have made Potnal terracotta jewellery popular in other countries too.